Year Abroad in Peru- Part II, Arequipa

The bus journey to Arequipa was mega long and was also delayed en route, making it 18 hours in total. I was lucky to have my university friend, Steph, so that I didn't go stir crazy. Steph would be living in the same city as me, although we'd be teaching at different schools, which was a big comfort, and reassurance. We arrived in Arequipa in the early hours of the morning and were greeted by our respective families and left for our new homes.

Beautiful Arequipa, 'the White City'

Arequipa is a highland city, 2328 metres above sea level, with stunning views of the (active) volcanoes surrounding the city. It's a really beautiful part of Peru, much more pleasing to the eye than Lima. It's nicknamed 'the White City' due to the white volcanic stone that was used to construct most of the old buildings, which really adds to its charm and beauty. The view from my bedroom window was the Misti volcano, a great symbol for the region. I later learnt that Arequipa wanted independence from the rest of Peru, and because of that people in Lima mock the arequipeños, and the people of Arequipa would tell me of the horrors that awaited me in the horrible city of Lima. I think it was all light-hearted... maybe. 

The family welcomed me into their home, taught me how to make a Pisco Sour, the national drink of Peru (although Chile claims it as its own also), and took me out on family outings around the city. I could feel my Spanish improving day by day, and my confidence growing. At first I was paranoid of getting mugged and wouldn't go out alone, or take a taxi because of the stories I'd heard about taxi drivers taking advantage of gringos, a name for Americans and Brits that is used a lot by Peruvians. Eventually, I decided that I had to take advantage of my freedom and get out and about by myself. One day, I rang a safe taxi company to come and pick me up and take me to the plaza de armas, and since then I was much more independent, roaming around the streets of Arequipa without a worry.

Possibly the prettiest plaza de armas in Peru

Steph and I ended up exploring lots of touristy destinations in the city, including the cathedral, a beautifully painted nunnery, a museum with a scary and very well preserved mummy and lots more. I also went horse riding along the river.

And here we have it: a woman in a colourful skirt!

Horse riding in the countryside

Santa Catalina Monastery 

As I mentioned before, I volunteered as an English language teaching assistant in three private schools in Peru, one in Arequipa, and two in Lima. The first school was an Anglo-American school and, apparently, one of the best in the city. I worked alongside some great teachers who made me feel so welcome in the school, and comfortable in the classroom. One of the best parts of working there was the freedom they gave me to participate in classes actively. I had the chance to plan lessons, teach the students about culture in the UK, and lead interactive activities. I was even there for Arequipa day, which they celebrated for the entire week at the school (very typically Peruvian: celebrate every festival as thoroughly as possible). This meant that one day a live band played Spanish-style music with traditional instruments. They even decided to serenade the gringa, which ended in me slow dancing with a band member in front of all the students and teachers... Working at that school challenged my teaching skills, and gave me confidence to teach different kinds of students, including the menaces (of which there were quite a few)! Unfortunately my time there came to an end prematurely.

Me and the guy who serenaded me

As it turns out, I don't deal well with altitude. Ever since I arrived in Arequipa I had been ill on and off and it came to its worst point when Steph and I went hiking at Colca Canyon, which is beautiful, more than twice the size of the Grand Canyon in depth, but also high above sea level. I started feeling sick on the journey there as the altitude increased, but put it down to the bumpy car ride. I soon realised that it was soroche, altitude sickness, so I chewed lots of coca sweets, made from coca leaves, as they are meant to help. The scenery on the hike was truly stunning, but the altitude sickness really did ruin it for me. To cut a long story short, I ended up having to get medical treatment for the soroche on my return to Arequipa, and decided that it would be best to move to my Lima placement, at sea level, earlier than intented. In the back of my mind was my planned hike to Machu Picchu, another trek that would take me to quite literally dizzying heights.

Trekking in Colca Canyon